Estancia Colomé and the world's highest vineyards

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Barrel room at Estancia Colomé 

Mum and I, tiny car, unsealed roads, middle of nowhere, rivers to cross (bridges?!..they're overrated) non-english speaking country...great idea! I can make it sound pretty impressive, but in reality it was really fun and while definitely an adventure, there was more laughter than tears.

Estancia Colomé is a luxury estancia (country estate) literally in the middle of nowhere, a true 'destination hotel'. The drive really is worth it; if you're planning on visiting Northern Argentina it will be a question you ask at some stage, because it does take some serious effort to reach. And, some serious cash when you arrive. Colomé is no budget destination, beware.

River crossing!

The rooms are set around an internal courtyard, with everything provided; an old-school English style bar with couches you just about disappear into, restaurant, gift shop, big pool brimming with clear blue water and with views over cacti and vines to snow-capped mountains in the distance. And its own private, huge, interactive art gallery / museum filled with originals by James Turrell, an American artist primarily concerned with light and space. 
Colomé is remote however, and while it's admirable that they have created jobs and opportunities for the indigenous people of the area, friendly and quality service is something which is, disappointingly and surprisingly, lacking. This is by no means a reflection on the local people, as many of the places we stayed at were staffed almost in entirety by indigenous people and were beautifully run, warm and friendly. 

Vicunas (similar to Alpaca but softer wool)

The Estancia makes its own high-altitude wines, the Malbec and Torrontes being quite exceptional although those harvested above 2000m I couldn't help but feel were more about gimmick than seriously good wines. One of my favorite wines, ever, was the Colomé 'Lote Especial' Malbec made at 1800m at the San Isidro vineyard - so fragrant, juicy, lifted, concentrated and well balanced I'm still dreaming about it. AND the only place you can buy a bottle, is at the Estate. Great reason to go!

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Dakar-style, Salta to Cachi (watch out for the wild donkeys around the bends)

The drive from Salta to Cachi in Northern Argentina definitely doesn't lack descriptive adjectives; let's start with hair-raising, mind-boggling, rustic, stunning, addictive, and rally, rally fun.

Flying along the highway (sealed!! We really had no idea what we were in for) through the first patches of rain of the trip, dodging speeding trucks in low visibility, I thought I had drawn the short straw having to drive this part of the journey, from Purmamarca to Salta. Stopping off in the main town of the area, Salta, we stocked up on empanadas, fuel and a bit of culture by finding the cathedral, and swapped drivers. Salta is a really pretty town with a beautiful main square and feels very cosmopolitan compared with the tiny villages surrounding it and right up to the Bolivian border.

Salta Cathedral

The route from Salta to Cachi is visually almost unbelievable, and probably one of the most stunning routes in the world. No photo could ever do justice to the diversity and beauty of this drive. It's mostly unsealed, fording streams is a 1/2 hourly occurrence, and there may well be a wild donkey, horse or llama around the next bend so it's definitely never boring!

Driving out from Salta there are lush plains and fields of tobacco, corn and cattle. This gives way to sub-tropical rainforest once the climb begins, and the asphalt peters out. Cachi can only be reached from Salta by driving over a mountain range characterised by the Piedra del Molino ('Mill Rock'), with very twisting roads, steep drops, lush forest, waterfalls, towering red rocks and dotted cacti. The drive can take around 4 hours in total; this includes photo-op stops which you'd be mad not to factor in. Mum had a ball getting into rally-driver mode, skidding around bends and through streams in our little VW Gol (same as a Golf) - pfft to 4WD's!

The view heading in to Cachi town

Once up nice and high, around 2,500m elevation, the road flattens and the drive through the Los Cordones national park begins. Sweeping, giant cacti-filled plains, wild goats, donkeys and llamas provide the foreground to towering snow-covered mountains and sheer cliffs. A.M.A.Z.I.N.G.

We chose to drive the supposedly less-scenic route skipping the most rugged part of the national park, which we had heard turns into little more than a dirt track. After 5 hours of already fairly challenging roads we decided we deserved the easy route. And no matter how amazing that other route may be, I cannot imagine it could ever be more stunning than the one we drove through. The size and visual force of the enormous jagged mountains, covered in snow and overlooking giant cacti 5m high, will stay with us forever.

Our hotel in Cachi, mountains in the background

Approaching Cachi, a tiny town with all this stunning scenery around it, we were exhausted from all the splendour and dakar-rally-style roads. Luckily the hotel we were staying in was magnificent, with a spa (well, we deserved it!), fantastic restaurant, big deep baths and breathtaking views. It was a very long day but one of the most memorable, ever.

Arial view showing terrain between Salta and Cachi

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