Cafayate, Argentina, home of Torrontes wines, the BEST empanadas and one of my favorite little towns ever!

Driving from Estancia Colome to Cafayate

 Cafayate (pronunciation lesson; in Argentina 'y' is pronounced 'j' [and 'j' as a 'y' just to make it more exciting]  - kaf-a-ja-tae) is one of the coolest little towns I'd never imagined!

About 3 hours from Salta  - I doubt anyone knows the exact timing, as the route is so scenic and stunning that everyone stops numerous times - Cafayate is home to sunshine, vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see, friendly locals, delicious food (OMG the empanadas), Torrontes (white) and Malbec (red) wines, and some of the oldest wineries in Argentina.

Save Your Soul peoples!
Retro-fantastic church in the middle of nowhere

Surrounded by towering red rocks, it's like coming upon an oasis, especially if you're driving from the bleak-but-amazing desert atmosphere of Colome and Cachi. The town is centered around a tree-filled square where teenagers sit next to each other but chat via Facebook on their i-pad 2's, while their parents weave ponchos nearby and their grandparents sip Malbec from Etchart winery, as they have been for the last 60+ years.

Patios de Cafayate, luxury accommodation

It's a very safe and welcoming town to wander around and there are plenty of delicious eating and accommodation options, from quaint and homely to mucho expensive resorts. We stayed at Cafayate Wine Resort which, despite its name, doesn't have anything to do with the nearby vineyards but does offer quite a good selection of local wines by the glass in the hotel. It was out of town so having a hire car was a big advantage; certainly to visit the surrounding vineyards a car really is needed.

There are many local vendors hand-weaving brightly coloured rugs, and other desirable knick-nacks easier to fit into suitcases, and the vibe is congenial rural-South America; an absolute treat.

Cafayate is one of Argentina's oldest and most important wine-producing regions; less internationally-famous than Mendoza, but the quality is as good if not arguably higher. At around 1700m, the wines are high-altitude which means deep colour, intense flavour, fragrant and refined.

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Pampas! We are in Argentina after all

Estancia Colomé and the world's highest vineyards

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Barrel room at Estancia Colomé 

Mum and I, tiny car, unsealed roads, middle of nowhere, rivers to cross (bridges?!..they're overrated) non-english speaking country...great idea! I can make it sound pretty impressive, but in reality it was really fun and while definitely an adventure, there was more laughter than tears.

Estancia Colomé is a luxury estancia (country estate) literally in the middle of nowhere, a true 'destination hotel'. The drive really is worth it; if you're planning on visiting Northern Argentina it will be a question you ask at some stage, because it does take some serious effort to reach. And, some serious cash when you arrive. Colomé is no budget destination, beware.

River crossing!

The rooms are set around an internal courtyard, with everything provided; an old-school English style bar with couches you just about disappear into, restaurant, gift shop, big pool brimming with clear blue water and with views over cacti and vines to snow-capped mountains in the distance. And its own private, huge, interactive art gallery / museum filled with originals by James Turrell, an American artist primarily concerned with light and space. 
Colomé is remote however, and while it's admirable that they have created jobs and opportunities for the indigenous people of the area, friendly and quality service is something which is, disappointingly and surprisingly, lacking. This is by no means a reflection on the local people, as many of the places we stayed at were staffed almost in entirety by indigenous people and were beautifully run, warm and friendly. 

Vicunas (similar to Alpaca but softer wool)

The Estancia makes its own high-altitude wines, the Malbec and Torrontes being quite exceptional although those harvested above 2000m I couldn't help but feel were more about gimmick than seriously good wines. One of my favorite wines, ever, was the Colomé 'Lote Especial' Malbec made at 1800m at the San Isidro vineyard - so fragrant, juicy, lifted, concentrated and well balanced I'm still dreaming about it. AND the only place you can buy a bottle, is at the Estate. Great reason to go!

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Iguazu Falls

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Immense cascading waterfalls, butterflies and lush rainforest characterize Iguazu in the northeastern corner of the country. ‘Poor Niagara!’ commented Eleanor Roosevelt when she saw the Iguazu Falls. One of the great natural wonders of the world, the falls have to be seen to be believed and will thrill even the hardest of hearts.

Thundering over smooth rock and plunging into white-misted depths, the sight is magnificently awe-inspiring, can be viewed from both the Argentine and Brazilian sides, and the 275-odd waterfalls stretch for 2.7km of amazing. The flight itself from Buenos Aires is remarkable, showing geographical changes from pampas plains to vermillion roads and lush forest."

Argentinian wines - regions and varieties

Looking across to the Andes, Mendoza Province Argentina
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Argentinian Wines

Famous for Malbec, the fragrant, juicy, intense red wine synonymous now with Argentina and perfectly matched to steak, Argentina offers world-class wine tourism opportunities. Stunning, architecturally designed wineries have been built firmly with tourism in mind, many providing deluxe accommodation and restaurants to boot.

The Argentine wine story dates back to 1557 when cuttings were shipped from Spain. Historically aiming for quantity over quality in its wine industry, Argentina is the world’s 5th largest wine producer however has dramatically turned the tables in recent years to now yield some of the world’s finest and most exciting drops. The country produces excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah (Shiraz), Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and sparkling wines in addition to its unique flagship varieties.

Argentina produces three varieties quite idiosyncratic unto itself; Malbec, originally an unimpressive French varietal, has found a home and flourished in Argentina; it is characterised by its deep colour and intense fruity flavours with a distinctive velvety texture. Bunches are smaller than their French counterparts, with petite berries imparting greater concentration of flavours. Torrontés is Argentina’s most unique variety; it produces highly aromatic, distinctive, fresh white wines and excels when grown at high altitudes.  Thirdly, Bonarda (The Best Wine You’ve Never Heard Of, according to goodcheapvino.com) when well made, produces soft, rounded, juicy red-fruit wines with a nice touch of acidity. Its origins are a mystery although it is most likely to have come from the Piedmont region in Italy, and is very similar to Charbono grown widly in California.

Mendoza is the main wine-producing area and is divided into three main areas of Luján de Cuyo, Maipú and the up-and-coming higher-altitude Valle d’Uco. It is a picturesque region, abundant with alluring tour and accommodation options ranging from super-deluxe to local B&Bs. To the north, considerably hotter and drier but with stunning scenic valleys, San Juan and La Rioja is the second largest producer of wines.

Less famous but rapidly gaining recognition, Salta province, especially around Cafayate, produces truly exceptional high-altitude wines. Malbec and Torrontés have shown particular aptitude when grown at high altitude; greater elevation increases phenolic concentration and imparts higher acidity, balance and depth to the wines. Indeed, the luxurious Estancia Colomé owns the highest vineyards in the world and produces Malbec at 3000m.

Continuing with the extremes, Patagonia in southern Argentina is home to some of the world’s southernmost vineyards. Noted unsurprisingly for its cool climate, the region is divided into the provinces of Neuquén, Rio Negro and southern La Pampa. Varieties produced include Chardonnay, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc.