Estancia Colomé and the world's highest vineyards

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Barrel room at Estancia Colomé 

Mum and I, tiny car, unsealed roads, middle of nowhere, rivers to cross (bridges?!..they're overrated) non-english speaking country...great idea! I can make it sound pretty impressive, but in reality it was really fun and while definitely an adventure, there was more laughter than tears.

Estancia Colomé is a luxury estancia (country estate) literally in the middle of nowhere, a true 'destination hotel'. The drive really is worth it; if you're planning on visiting Northern Argentina it will be a question you ask at some stage, because it does take some serious effort to reach. And, some serious cash when you arrive. Colomé is no budget destination, beware.

River crossing!

The rooms are set around an internal courtyard, with everything provided; an old-school English style bar with couches you just about disappear into, restaurant, gift shop, big pool brimming with clear blue water and with views over cacti and vines to snow-capped mountains in the distance. And its own private, huge, interactive art gallery / museum filled with originals by James Turrell, an American artist primarily concerned with light and space. 
Colomé is remote however, and while it's admirable that they have created jobs and opportunities for the indigenous people of the area, friendly and quality service is something which is, disappointingly and surprisingly, lacking. This is by no means a reflection on the local people, as many of the places we stayed at were staffed almost in entirety by indigenous people and were beautifully run, warm and friendly. 

Vicunas (similar to Alpaca but softer wool)

The Estancia makes its own high-altitude wines, the Malbec and Torrontes being quite exceptional although those harvested above 2000m I couldn't help but feel were more about gimmick than seriously good wines. One of my favorite wines, ever, was the Colomé 'Lote Especial' Malbec made at 1800m at the San Isidro vineyard - so fragrant, juicy, lifted, concentrated and well balanced I'm still dreaming about it. AND the only place you can buy a bottle, is at the Estate. Great reason to go!

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