Cafayate, Argentina, home of Torrontes wines, the BEST empanadas and one of my favorite little towns ever!

Driving from Estancia Colome to Cafayate

 Cafayate (pronunciation lesson; in Argentina 'y' is pronounced 'j' [and 'j' as a 'y' just to make it more exciting]  - kaf-a-ja-tae) is one of the coolest little towns I'd never imagined!

About 3 hours from Salta  - I doubt anyone knows the exact timing, as the route is so scenic and stunning that everyone stops numerous times - Cafayate is home to sunshine, vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see, friendly locals, delicious food (OMG the empanadas), Torrontes (white) and Malbec (red) wines, and some of the oldest wineries in Argentina.

Save Your Soul peoples!
Retro-fantastic church in the middle of nowhere

Surrounded by towering red rocks, it's like coming upon an oasis, especially if you're driving from the bleak-but-amazing desert atmosphere of Colome and Cachi. The town is centered around a tree-filled square where teenagers sit next to each other but chat via Facebook on their i-pad 2's, while their parents weave ponchos nearby and their grandparents sip Malbec from Etchart winery, as they have been for the last 60+ years.

Patios de Cafayate, luxury accommodation

It's a very safe and welcoming town to wander around and there are plenty of delicious eating and accommodation options, from quaint and homely to mucho expensive resorts. We stayed at Cafayate Wine Resort which, despite its name, doesn't have anything to do with the nearby vineyards but does offer quite a good selection of local wines by the glass in the hotel. It was out of town so having a hire car was a big advantage; certainly to visit the surrounding vineyards a car really is needed.

There are many local vendors hand-weaving brightly coloured rugs, and other desirable knick-nacks easier to fit into suitcases, and the vibe is congenial rural-South America; an absolute treat.

Cafayate is one of Argentina's oldest and most important wine-producing regions; less internationally-famous than Mendoza, but the quality is as good if not arguably higher. At around 1700m, the wines are high-altitude which means deep colour, intense flavour, fragrant and refined.

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Pampas! We are in Argentina after all

Estancia Colomé and the world's highest vineyards

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Barrel room at Estancia Colomé 

Mum and I, tiny car, unsealed roads, middle of nowhere, rivers to cross (bridges?!..they're overrated) non-english speaking country...great idea! I can make it sound pretty impressive, but in reality it was really fun and while definitely an adventure, there was more laughter than tears.

Estancia Colomé is a luxury estancia (country estate) literally in the middle of nowhere, a true 'destination hotel'. The drive really is worth it; if you're planning on visiting Northern Argentina it will be a question you ask at some stage, because it does take some serious effort to reach. And, some serious cash when you arrive. Colomé is no budget destination, beware.

River crossing!

The rooms are set around an internal courtyard, with everything provided; an old-school English style bar with couches you just about disappear into, restaurant, gift shop, big pool brimming with clear blue water and with views over cacti and vines to snow-capped mountains in the distance. And its own private, huge, interactive art gallery / museum filled with originals by James Turrell, an American artist primarily concerned with light and space. 
Colomé is remote however, and while it's admirable that they have created jobs and opportunities for the indigenous people of the area, friendly and quality service is something which is, disappointingly and surprisingly, lacking. This is by no means a reflection on the local people, as many of the places we stayed at were staffed almost in entirety by indigenous people and were beautifully run, warm and friendly. 

Vicunas (similar to Alpaca but softer wool)

The Estancia makes its own high-altitude wines, the Malbec and Torrontes being quite exceptional although those harvested above 2000m I couldn't help but feel were more about gimmick than seriously good wines. One of my favorite wines, ever, was the Colomé 'Lote Especial' Malbec made at 1800m at the San Isidro vineyard - so fragrant, juicy, lifted, concentrated and well balanced I'm still dreaming about it. AND the only place you can buy a bottle, is at the Estate. Great reason to go!

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