The drive from Salta to Cachi in Northern Argentina definitely doesn't lack descriptive adjectives; let's start with hair-raising, mind-boggling, rustic, stunning, addictive, and rally, rally fun. |
Flying along the highway (sealed!! We really had no idea what we were in for) through the first patches of rain of the trip, dodging speeding trucks in low visibility, I thought I had drawn the short straw having to drive this part of the journey, from Purmamarca to Salta. Stopping off in the main town of the area, Salta, we stocked up on empanadas, fuel and a bit of culture by finding the cathedral, and swapped drivers. Salta is a really pretty town with a beautiful main square and feels very cosmopolitan compared with the tiny villages surrounding it and right up to the Bolivian border.
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| Salta Cathedral |
The route from Salta to Cachi is visually almost unbelievable, and probably one of the most stunning routes in the world. No photo could ever do justice to the diversity and beauty of this drive. It's mostly unsealed, fording streams is a 1/2 hourly occurrence, and there may well be a wild donkey, horse or llama around the next bend so it's definitely never boring!
Driving out from Salta there are lush plains and fields of tobacco, corn and cattle. This gives way to sub-tropical rainforest once the climb begins, and the asphalt peters out. Cachi can only be reached from Salta by driving over a mountain range characterised by the Piedra del Molino ('Mill Rock'), with very twisting roads, steep drops, lush forest, waterfalls, towering red rocks and dotted cacti. The drive can take around 4 hours in total; this includes photo-op stops which you'd be mad not to factor in. Mum had a ball getting into rally-driver mode, skidding around bends and through streams in our little VW Gol (same as a Golf) - pfft to 4WD's!
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| The view heading in to Cachi town |
Once up nice and high, around 2,500m elevation, the road flattens and the drive through the Los Cordones national park begins. Sweeping, giant cacti-filled plains, wild goats, donkeys and llamas provide the foreground to towering snow-covered mountains and sheer cliffs. A.M.A.Z.I.N.G.
We chose to drive the supposedly less-scenic route skipping the most rugged part of the national park, which we had heard turns into little more than a dirt track. After 5 hours of already fairly challenging roads we decided we deserved the easy route. And no matter how amazing that other route may be, I cannot imagine it could ever be more stunning than the one we drove through. The size and visual force of the enormous jagged mountains, covered in snow and overlooking giant cacti 5m high, will stay with us forever.
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| Our hotel in Cachi, mountains in the background |
Approaching Cachi, a tiny town with all this stunning scenery around it, we were exhausted from all the splendour and dakar-rally-style roads. Luckily the hotel we were staying in was magnificent, with a spa (well, we deserved it!), fantastic restaurant, big deep baths and breathtaking views. It was a very long day but one of the most memorable, ever.
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| Arial view showing terrain between Salta and Cachi |
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Thundering over smooth rock and plunging into white-misted depths, the sight is magnificently awe-inspiring, can be viewed from both the Argentine and Brazilian sides, and the 275-odd waterfalls stretch for 2.7km of amazing. The flight itself from Buenos Aires is remarkable, showing geographical changes from pampas plains to vermillion roads and lush forest."
